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Natural Products News Round Table – Part 2 – The Korean Beauty Trend

Natural Products News Round Table – Part 2 – The Korean Beauty Trend

Back in October last year, I was invited to the Diversified headquarters in Brighton. Diversified are the publishers of Natural Products News and Natural Beauty News, amongst other titles, and organisers of several trade events including Natural & Organic Products Europe.  

The panel was chaired by Julia Zaltzman, editor of Natural Beauty News, and also sitting were Sonia White, founder of Love Lula, Donna Ashcroft, buyer at www.biggreensmile.com and Lorraine Dallmeier from Formula Botanica.

Four questions were posed, and I thought it would be interesting to share my musings on all of them with you. Here is the second question:

The K-Beauty Trend – Asian, in particular Korean, beauty trends are driving innovation in the beauty field, from BB creams to serums, brightening creams, dark spot correctors, face masks and anti-aging products – but can/will they deliver innovations in natural beauty? And what developments are coming out Asia that we think will really impact our sector?

To this question, I posed the question that there are so many crossovers between natural beauty and K-beauty that it is difficult to know who is copying who. K-beauty formulas, although not completely natural, utilise natural ingredients within their formulas.

I suspect there is probably a bit of poaching ideas from both sides, Asian beauty brands looking out for the latest innovative natural ingredients and natural formulators looking east for formulation inspiration. In 2016, quinoa was reported as a big ingredient trend in K-Beauty, however Green People launched their quinoa hair care in 2015.

Think about the waterless beauty trend we discussed in the first part of this series, this movement came out of Asia undoubtedly, however, think of all the gorgeous beauty balms and body whips we have in the natural products industry. These products have been around for years, before we even heard the term K-beauty. One might argue that waterless beauty has been around for years, but it is the Asia beauty movement that has created a trend around this kind of product.

Next comes the BB-CC cream trend, which has undoubtedly grown over the past few years in the UK. I was shocked to learn that Korean women have been using BB cream for over thirty years! One brand in the natural products industry that showed innovation and a certain marketing quirk in this field was Green People. They created a DD cream – that’s a Daily Defence cream with a tint for even coverage, beauty beneficials and an SPF (hence the daily defence name).

Hydrating essences, pH-balancing toners, and serums are other products utilised in the K-beauty 7 step regime, but again these are nothing new in the natural products industry. It is just that the K-beauty craze has brought these products into the limelight and perhaps made natural marketers think about what messages are used to promote their products.

Cleansing is undoubtedly one of the most important phases of any beauty regimen, but in K-beauty they are serious about their double cleansing, sometimes utilising two products, an oil cleanser followed by a foaming cleanser; and sometimes utilising a one product two-phase cleanser.

I don’t think of oil cleansers as anything particularly new in the natural beauty world, but I do think the K-beauty trend has helped spur the growth of oil cleanser aficionados. Two phase cleansers are the recent big thing in K-beauty cleansing, however, I remember Evolve Beauty’s Gentle Cleansing Melt, which must have been around for at least 7 years if not longer, which has two phases. It goes on a balm and upon contact with water turns into a creamy milk to rinse away leaving no residue behind.

I think western marketers may well look towards Asian beauty trends for inspiration. Think about the current trend of anti-pollution skincare; off the top of my head I can think of FOM London, Alba Botanica Volcanic Clay and Avalon Organics Intense Defense. This is a huge trend in the UK at the moment but has been around on the K-beauty scene for several years.

Last but not least, harder working makeup was another trend reported in 2016, i.e. makeup with skincare benefits. If you are choosing to use natural makeup however you are already opting for makeup that not only offers coverage and/or colour but is also full of ingredients your skin loves.

What are your thoughts on Asian beauty trends? Do you look to the east for inspiration for your brand? We’d love to hear from you hi@rebeccagoodyear.com

Natural Products News Round Table – Part 1 – Waterless Beauty Products

Natural Products News Round Table – Part 1 – Waterless Beauty Products

Back in October last year, I was invited to the Diversified headquarters in Brighton. Diversified are the publishers of Natural Products News and Natural Beauty News, amongst other titles, and organisers of several trade events including Natural & Organic Products Europe.  

The panel was chaired by Julia Zaltzman, editor of Natural Beauty News, and also sitting were Jayn Sterland, managing director of Weleda, Kirstie & Luke Sherriff co-founders of Pinks Boutique and Stockport health store Amaranth’s owner, Joanne Hill.

Four questions were posed, and I thought it would be interesting to share my musings on all of them with you. Here is the first question:

  1. Waterless Beauty – With water becoming an increasingly precious resource, smart beauty brands are investing in products that use less water and more sustainable production processes – many organic brands have spent time and resources making products look and feel like mainstream creams, is the waterless trend here to stay? How can organic beauty brands capitalise on this trend ahead of mainstream brands?

Upon reading this first question, I thought “is water really becoming that much more precious?” because none of us seem to be doing anything about it. So I looked for some stats and I found the following on www.fewresources.org

“By 2025, 1.8 billion people will experience absolute water scarcity and two thirds of the world will be living under water-stressed conditions.”

Admittedly, this has a lot to do with the fact that 85% of the world’s population live in the driest half of the planet, but nevertheless, these statistics are food for thought.

To put the current price of water in perspective, and the reason it is the choice ingredient for a cheap filler in beauty products, I did a bit of research. On Amazon, I can buy 25 litres of distilled and deionised water on Amazon for £39.99. In contrast, I could buy 25 litres of organic jojoba oil for £829.49 on aromantic.co.uk. That makes the jojoba oil over 20 times more costly than the water!

With no real value put on water in terms of price, one has to question whether the threat of water scarcity is real and just how is will affect us all, and current production methods of not just beauty but all industry that involve heavy water usage.

But just how real is the threat? One only has to look at fossil fuels, at current production rates it is estimated we will run out sometime this century, but petrochemicals are still a massive part of mainstream cosmetics production despite being a limited resource.

Based on the aforementioned points, I do not believe we will see any decline in water usage in the beauty industry anytime soon.

That said, I do think waterless beauty products are here to stay. There are advantages to waterless beauty, such as less reliance on synthetic preservatives, and great concentration of active ingredients. These are two points that natural and organic formulators have always prided themselves on so in the natural products industry it is not necessarily a new thing. Natural products formulators will sometimes also use a water alternative, such as a hydrosol (a flower water – rose and lavender are both commonly used) or aloe vera juice or gel, which are water rich but also contain minerals and micronutrients to feed the skin.

Do you use waterless beauty products in your regime already? Are you a formulator with an opinion on waterless beauty? We’d love to hear from you hi@rebeccagoodyear.com